This is really a very easy job to do if you have some very basic tools.


Tools
Jack and Jack Stands.
4 way for removing lug nuts or the 21MM socket.
21MM socket (Lug nuts and Torque Member Bolts.)
14MM socket (Sliding Pin Bolts.)
1/2" drive ratchet and extensions.
Broad Blade Straight Slot screwdriver
4" C-Clamp
Bungee Cord(for holding Caliper once removed)
Torque wrench able to Torque to 155 FT-Lbs. (places like Autozone will lend these to you.)
Cheater bar (for getting the 155 FT-Lbs Torque Member bolts loose). Or Rubber Mallet (self Explanatory).
Extras
Brake Fluid
Disk Brake Quiet
Service manual



The last thing you need is a way to siphon some of the brake fluid out. I have a Mighty Vac that is designed for doing this but there are other ways to remove it like the old Lady's turkey baster or the bulb your wife used on the infants for cleaning out their noses and ears when they were tiny. (Just don't put them back when you're done.)

Here we go,
1 Remove 3/4 of the brake fluid from the reservoir and then drape a clean rag over and around it. (when you compress the pistons back into the caliper fluid will be forced into the reservoir.)

2.) Loosen the lugs on the left wheel then jack the truck up until the wheel is off the ground and put a jack stand under the truck for safety. Now take the lug nuts off and remove the wheel.

3.) Now we're going to remove the two sliding pin bolts using a 14 MM socket. The photo below shows these two bolts already backed out at both the top and the bottom and the caliper removed.
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With these two bolts removed you can now use the screwdriver to pry the caliper back from the rotor and then move it out of the way and hang it with the bungee cord to keep from damaging the brake line.
(For brake pad replacement that's all the disassembly required.)

4.) Now we just slide both both brake pads out. Take the new pads and apply Brake quiet to the back sides of the pad per the directions.




Note: Remember that the pad with the metal depth gage on it (Starts grating when your pads need replacement) goes on the inside with the metal flange toward the bottom.

5.) Now take one of the old brake pads and place it against the two pistons sticking out of the Caliper and position a 4" C-Clamp to facilitate the compression of the pistons back into the caliper.

Reassembly is just reversed with the torque spec for the 2 sliding pin bolts being 32 Ft-Lbs and the lug nuts being 98 Ft-Lbs per the owners manual.

Now the fun part .

6.) In order to remove the rotors we have to remove both the upper and lower torque member bolts so we can remove the torque member. ( The torque member is what the Pads are in).
The picture below shows the location of the bolts with a wrench and a ratchet and the brake pads removed.

Note: On the left side I used a 21 MM wrench and kept smacking it with a rubber mallet to get the bolt out. On the right side I used a ratchet with a piece of pipe slide over the handle for leverage. In the future I'll use my air impact wrench but I wanted to prove to myself that no special tools were needed for this upgrade.

After you get the torque member removed the rotors just slide off and on the studs for the lug nuts. (Make sure you get the correct rotor on the correct side of the truck. For the Powerslot rotors the rotor labeled L goes on the drivers side of the truck, with the R rotor going on the passenger side.)

7.) Now you just reinstall every thing in reverse.
Note: The manual says to not reuse the torque member bolts.

New rotor and OEM Torque member reinstalled with the 2 bolts being torqued to 155 Ft-Lbs




After you get the other side done and both wheels back on make sure to top off the brake fluid and put the lid back on the Reservoir and go bed these puppies in.
Last but not least my brake pads after 63,000 miles compared to a new set.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Changed mine (pads) this weekend and it couldn't have been any simpler. What kinda iffy about it once I first started, but it is fairly self explanatory. I myself am a mechanic by no means, but if you can breath, you can change the brakes on the Titan.

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2010 Smoke Crew Cab 4x4 w/ SE Value Truck Package

Mods:

Extang Trifecta Folding Tonneau Cover ~ Nitto Terra Grapplers LT275/70/18 ~ 15% Tint ~ Aries SS Bull Bar ~ Warn W650D Wireless Driving Lights ~ Magnaflow OEM muffler swap ~ SuperChips Cortex 93 Tune ~ Volant Powercore CAI ~ 2* Timing Advance

Squid, nice write-up. As I view this now, the imbedded photos do not show and say they have been moved or deleted by photobucket. The attachment image, however, shows up nicely.

Could I make a suggestion for step 1 to include a caution not to uncover the master cylinder intake/exhaust ports as this would introduce air and cause the need to bleed the brakes. Some folks are sure to think if they remove 3/4 of the fluid and that is good, removing all the fluid is bound to be better

Red

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2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy

Anyone upgrade the rotors on their Titans? I just ordered Powerslot slotted rotors for the fronts with Hawk LTS pads for all four corners...Just did a set of Frozen rotors for a friends Pathfinder...easy as pie!

Powerslot is what I did up above and now have 140,000 miles on the truck so that's 80,000 on them and Carbotech Bobcat Pads. Looks like I need to find all the pictures and get them in the post.