I received permission from "colochoclab" on CT to cross-post the information he provided. Here it is:

Begin cross-post.

For those of you out there with the Equal-i-zer WD Hitch, you are familiar with popping and creaking from your hitch. I wrote to Progress Mfg. asking about noise and if the teflon pads for the L-Brackets were still available. This is their reply"

Question:
I am still having some noise issues, especially during turning. Do you
recommend lubricating the L-Brackets? Will this affect the sway control in any
way?"

Answer:
First of all, it should be noted that just about every weight distribution
and sway control hitch makes some amount of noise due to the high amounts of pressure and weight. Most people are not bothered by it, and say "That's how I know my hitch is working!" The Equal-i-zer is a friction-based hitch utilizing four positive friction areas to eliminate trailer sway: the rotational
friction of the Arm Sockets pivoting during turns, and the linear friction of the
Spring Arms sliding on the L-Brackets during turns. These surfaces are
metal-on-metal, so it will naturally make some noise. It is normal for your hitch to make some noise. However, there are some things that can be done to reduce the noise New hitches should be allowed a break-in period, which involves more noise than usual. Looking back in our emails, it appears that you started towing with your Equal-i-zer Hitch in May of this year. How long it takes a hitch to "break in" depends on the weights you are towing, how often you tow, how far you tow, and how frequently you make turns (as opposed to mostly straight driving on an interstate). The sockets will wear a rotational path under the Hitch Head as they rotate during turns. This may produce some small metal shavings (which is normal) until the sockets and head seat together in a smooth, shiny rotational path. After this break-in period, the noise should be reduced. During this time and throughout the life of your hitch, it is good to lubricate the Hitch Head on the friction areas that contact each other, as described in the Maintenance section of your Installation Instructions. It not only helps to reduce the noise and flush out the metal shavings, but is essential to prolonging the life of your hitch. These two points of the 4-Point Sway Control are the most powerful for stopping sway, and also make more noise than the other two points (the L-Brackets).
Lubricating the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets and Spring Arms is
optional to reduce some noise, but is not necessary for the proper function of the hitch. As you make turns, the grease will spread up and down these arms as they slide through the brackets. Not only does this make it messier when
handling and storing the Spring Arms, this will also become a concern over time as the grease begins to collect dirt and road grit. If these areas are not
regularly cleaned, the build-up of dirt may cause some binding, as well as increased noise and wear. If you choose to lubricate the L-Brackets, then you should plan to clean them off regularly to prevent dirt from collecting.
For lubricating the Hitch Head, we recommend using our Equal-i-zer Socket
Lube (4 oz. squeeze bottle, part # 91-00-4200), sold for $8.29 plus shipping. It is similar to axle or bearing grease (both work fine as substitutes), but it
is a higher-grade blend that cleans up much easier. You can order this
directly from us by phone, through our new Online Store
(http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/), or request it through your local dealer. Avoid using spray-on lubrications or anything of thin consistency, as the won't hold up very long. Lubricating the hitch will not effectively work against the metal-on-metal friction that your hitch utilizes for eliminating trailer sway.

We do have some accessory items (also not necessary for the function of the
hitch) to help quiet the hitch in a much cleaner way. We may have a few sets
of our older Noise-Reduction Padded L-Bracket, sold for $36.00 each plus
shipping ($72.00 for a pair). These padded L-Brackets have a high-density
Polyethylene pad assembled to the base of the L-Bracket. You can also purchase just the Noise Reduction Pads if we still have some available, but this will require that you have two holes drilled in the vertical side of each L-Bracket to install the pads. Each pad costs $11.47 plus shipping ($22.94 for a pair), and comes with two bolts and two Nyloc nuts for fastening the pads to the L-Brackets.

These Noise Reduction Pads are being phased out for a redesigned and more
cost-effective version called the Sway Bracket Jackets, which will be available in the second week of January. This new version is also made of high-density polyethylene, but it requires no fasteners or drilling in the L-Brackets. Instead, the Sway Bracket Jacket can quickly and easily be attached and removed from the L-Brackets. For both the old and new version, the Spring Arm will rest and slide on this plastic pad. Because of the materials properties of rubbing steel on plastic, both the old and the new pads will reduce the noise.

However, it also reduces the friction, resulting in less sway control. If
reducing the noise is more important than complete sway control, then this option would help provide what you are looking for.
It should be noted that you may hear one or two "bang" or "pop" sounds during slow turns. This comes from the bars shifting side-to-side as you turn.
They will shift until contacting either the side of the L-Bracket or the L-Pin
that secures the bars to the brackets, depending on which way you are turning. This is a normal sound for the hitch, and should not cause concern.
I hope this information has been helpful. Please let me know how I can
further assist you.
Thanks,
Josh Jones
Progress Mfg Inc.
Customer Support
1-800-478-5578
jjones@progressmfg.com

End cross-post

Red

__________________
2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy

That was nice of him because that's some good info.

Hey Red,


I got a question for you. I have the Equal-i-zer and just can't get the truck level. I thought I had it but it still drop down in the back. Airbags would be my last resort but I've raised my L Bracket to the highest setting which is 2nd to hole. I still have one more hole but the set screw gets in the way of the bar so I can't raise it. I have the standard shank which I could adjust down a little more and I have 5 washers. Oh, I also have a Pro Comp 6" lift. It just doesn't feel like the front tires have enough weight while towing.

I emailed Equal-i-er last week but never got a response?

What do you think?

Thanks,
PB

__________________
2004 White SE, CC, BT, Off Road 4x4
• Banks Monster Exhaust • Pro Comp 6" Stage II • PRG Radflo External Reservoir Coilovers w/King Springs • EBC Slotted Rotor • Yellow Stuff Pads
• PRG OR Traction Bars • American Racing Chamber w/Teflon 17" • BFG T/A KO 315/70 17 • Active Tuning Grounding Kit
• FramBoost Air Intake • XM Satellite Radio • Hoppy Assist Tailgate • Grillcraft Black Mesh Grille • TruTrac

Wahoo

Well I can't offer specific advice on the hitch, as I don't own one nor have I used one.

The condition you describe sounds to me like the front end of the trailer is too heavy or the tongue height and hitch ball height are out of whack. Too much weight on the front of the trailer will put too much weight on the hitch. The weight distribution hitch attempts to overcome this by tightening up the equalizer links. But the links are only designed to transfer so much weight.

You mentioned that your truck is lifted. Do you have a drop head for the hitch ball? With the truck and trailer on a level surface and the trailer leveled as well the tongue and hitch ball should be the same height above the pavement.

I suggest you visit a truck scale and have the tongue weight checked with the trailer loaded as you normally tow it. I've mentioned it several times the importance of obtaining REAL weights and not just the "LABEL" weights. The weights provided by trailer manufacturers are often "guesstimates".

Please let me know if you come up with an answer or if the Hitch People respond.

Ralph

__________________
2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy