Big Tow Package

Big Tow Package (SE and LE Only)
? Class IV receiver hitch
? Additional 7-pin wiring harness plug
? Trailer brake controller pre-wiring under instrument panel
? Heavy-duty battery (710 CCA)
? Lower final gear ratio (3.36:1); similar to 4.10:1 on a 4-speed automatic
? Extendable tow mirrors
? Transmission temperature gauge
? Increased tow capacity
SE: Requires Trac Package (4x2 only). In addition, SE Rockford Fosgate Package or SE Popular Package is required.
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Wiring Pin-out.


If you don't have "Big Tow" and you want to add your own 4-pin, 7-pin, or multitow plug you'll find a harness behind the back bumper clipped to the frame with a cap on it. You can either buy the adapter (the 7-pin on the truck won't mate with the 7-pin on a trailer?) or you can cut off the plug and wire in your own using the pinout below.


Green = Left blinker
Yellow = Right blinker
Yellow/Red = Reverse lights
Brown/White = Electric brakes (this wire won't do you any good w/o a brake controller)
Black = Ground
White/Blue = Aux. power lead (always hot when key is "on" or "running")
Red = Taillights (running lights)


Common Towing terms.

GVW: Gross Vehicle Weight - the actual weight of a vehicle.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating: The maximum allowed GVW for a vehicle.

GCW: Gross Combined Weight: The total weight of everything - tow vehicle, trailer, etc.

GCWR: The maximum allowed GCW.

GAW: The Gross Axle Weight (front or rear) - the amount of weight on that particular axle.

GAWR: The Gross Axle Weight Rating (front or rear) - The maximum allowed GAW.

UVW: Unloaded Vehicle Weight - also know as "Dry Weight" or "Curb Weight". This is the weight your vehicle. Check your owners manual to determine what that includes. (may include full tank of gas and driver). UVW is also used for the weight of a trailer with no liquids or options. The GVW of the trailer will usually be 500-2000 pounds more than this number.

CCC: Cargo Carrying Capacity - GVWR minus the UVW. CCC is the weight of all personal belongings, food, fresh water, LP gas, tools, dealer-installed accessories, the battery and any and all camping gear you will carry.

Tow Rating: The rated towing capacity of a tow vehicle - generally based upon curb weight plus one 150-lb driver. This number is NOT designed as an indicator of what you can tow under normal conditions, but it is useful for comparisons. Usually the number given by the manufacturer is "when properly equipped" meaning you have a towing package, weight distribution hitch, and sway control when applicable.

* Actual towing capacity is usually less than the tow rating, or, to be more accurate, it's GCWR-GVW.

Note: The thing to remember is that neither GVWR nor GCWR can be exceeded safely.

Tire Ratings: The maximum load the tires are rated to carry, which like other ratings should not be exceeded. Especially important when buying replacements


Weight Distrubution System FAQ.

A weight distribution system enables a tow vehicle to more effectively handle the tongue weight of a trailer by removing some of the load from the tow vehicle's rear axle and distributing it through the frame to the tow vehicle's front axle and the trailer's axle(s).

When are they required?

Check your owners manual for this information. Most manufacturers give thier tow rating and then say "when properly equipped". That usually means you have a factory towing package which may or may not include the following: hitch receiver, trans cooler, heavy duty battery and alternator, 4pin or 7pin wiring harness, a weight distrubution hitch, and sway control.

*Most minivans need a WDH for trailers over 2,000#(GVW)

Also beware when buying a trailer so heavy, that your vehicle needs a WDH, then finding out that the trailer frame and tongue cannot accept the forces of a WDH. As a general rule of thumb, a trailer with a C channel tongue frame versus a box channel CAN'T take a WDH, but check with the trailer maker to be sure.

Without a WD system......

- The additional tongue weight on the back of your tow vehicle will cause the rear axle load to significantly increase. That causes your rear end to sag and make most tow vehicle/trailer combinations unlevel. The increase in weight may also exceed the axle's weight rating, and the heavy load on the receiver might exceed its rating.

- In addition to rear end sag the front axle load will be decreased. The decreased load on the front axle can cause a loss of steering control and braking difficulties. On front wheel drive vehicles you may also loose traction.

With a WD system......

- Tow vehicle and trailer remain level. The weight of the tongue is properly displaced throughout both the front axle of your rig and the trailer axles. You will retain steering, braking, and traction. Thus have better control of your vehicle.

Note - When the WD system is engaged the actual tongue weight does not change. (Recommended tongue weight is from 10% to 15% of your trailers weight.)

Disadvantage? Added cost and a few minutes extra hitch up time.

Advantages? Less wear and tear on your vehicle, ans added safety for you, your family and all others on the road.

Note See Part 2 below.

this info courtesy : Squid

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Brake Controllers FAQ


An electric trailer brake controller is a device that supplies power from a vehicle to a trailer's electric brakes. There are two types of electric brake controllers - Time Delay Activated ("solid state") and Inertia Activated ("pendulum style"). Although the controllers' methods are different, both types of controllers are very similar. Both allow the user to adjust output or braking power. Both have a pressure sensitive manual override trigger that can be used to apply the trailer brakes independent of the vehicle brakes. Both have the same wiring configuration.

Time Delay Activated
Solid state controllers are "enabled" by the brake pedal switch and apply a gradual voltage to the trailer's brakes using a Time Delay Circuit.
Advantages : Time Delayed controllers are inexpensive, have a low profile, and can be mounted on any angle (very user friendly).
Disadvantages: When towing (in most applications) with Hazard flashers on, the Digital Display will flash with the Hazard Flashers. If the Brake Control is set aggressively, pulsing may be felt in the trailer brakes. However the Pulse Preventer will isolate the Brake Control from the flashers and eliminate the flash/pulse situation.

Inertia Activated - Proportional
Pendulum Style Controllers are "enabled" by the brake pedal switch and "activated" by a Pendulum Circuit that senses the vehicle's stopping motion and applies a proportional voltage to the trailer's brakes. When properly adjusted the trailer will decelerate at the same speed as the tow vehicle. This increases braking efficiency and reduces brake wear.
Advantages: Pendulum style controllers operate well under adverse braking conditions and have a smooth braking action.
Disadvantages: Most inertia-activated controllers are bulky, more expensive, and must be mounted and calibrated level. The Tekonsha PRODIGY? and Valley Odyssey? inertia-activated brake controllers are the exceptions to these disadvantages.


Trailer Hitch FAQ.

Trailer hitches are each rated according to the 'Gross Trailer Weight' (or GTW) stated on your trailer hitch. GTW refers to a combination of the weight of the trailer and all of its contents. A cargo load must never exceed this gross trailer weight capacity. Hitches are classified in order to make it easier to match hitch equipment to trailers and towed vehicles. The following standards were set by the Society of Automotive Engineers (or the SAE):

Class I for towed vehicles up to 2,000-pounds in weight
Class II for towed vehicles from 2,001 to 3,500-pounds
Class III for vehicles from 3,501 to 5,000-pounds
Class IV for towed vehicles from 5,001 to 10,000-pounds

Q. What will happen if I exceed the tow rating for my vehicle?

A. You'll overload your vehicle's suspension, compromise your safe braking distance (which can cause brake failure) and your vehicle will have unsafe passing ability. Also overloading a vehicle's tow capacity can cause engine damage to your vehicle and may cause transmission failure.

Q. Are hitch installations permanent?

A. Hitch installations are most often permanent installations on your vehicle. Fixed tongue hitches have flat non-removable drawbar, while a receiver-style provides a little more discreetness because this hitch has a receptacle for inserting special ball mounts or bike racks so the drawbar can be removed and only the hitch ball remains on your vehicle. If you don't like the look of a bulky hitch sticking out from your bumper the hitch ball can be covered by a trailer hitch cover. If you don't mind paying extra, custom made hitches are specifically designed to compliment the look of the vehicle they are made for. Flip-up license plate hitches that roll up under your license plate when not in use are also more visually pleasing. Hidden hitches are also an attractive option because the whole trailer hitch assembly tucks up under the rear bumper of the vehicle for an unobtrusive look. With hidden hitches stylish cars, trucks, Jeeps or SUVs aren't blemished by a bulky trailer hitch.

Q. Why is it recommended that safety cables be crossed when towing?

A. Safety cables, or steel safety chains, should be installed in an 'X' pattern under the tow bar whenever you tow a trailer. By forming an 'X' pattern with the safety cables the crossed chains catch the tow bar before it hits the ground - which could cause serious damage to the trailer, tow equipment or may even cause an accident - if the tow bar comes unhooked. The safety cables should also always be wrapped around the tow bar legs once or twice between the two vehicles as an extra precaution. Wrapping the cables around the tow bar legs keeps the cables from dragging on the ground.

Q. Do I need tow mirrors for towing?

A. Tow mirrors are a wise investment for drivers who regularly tow. There are a variety of tow mirrors on the market - ranging from extra side-view size to extra extended wide mirrors. The tow mirrors your require will largely depend on what you're towing. If you're planning to tow a small to medium sized boat, RV or car trailer, you'll be able to see around the sides of your vehicle and tow load with factory-equipped, side-view mirrors. But for wide campers or wide-load carrying trailers you'll need side-view mirrors that extend out far enough for you get a visual down the side of your vehicle and the load. It's illegal to tow without mirrors that don't allow the driver to see down the entire length of the vehicle and trailer - so always test your visual with your mirrors before you tow.

Do I need a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton truck?

Like all half ton trucks the problem is not pulling the weight but the weight that is
over the rear axle. Since the Rear Wheel axle rating is 3800lbs and empty my truck
has a rear axle weight of 2450 this would only leave 1350lbs on the rear axle. Now
add three people and their stuff plus tools haybales and such and you can easily be
down to less than 700 lbs axle capacity. So if the Gooseneck pin weight is 700 lbs
you are out of axle capacity. We also have to deal with exceeding the Gross Vehicle
Weight rating which is 6500 lbs. The GVWR is actually less than the sum of the front
and rear axle ratings so it is easy to exceed even if you are within the axle ratings.
So if you know the weight of the gooseneck at the pin and you know the weight of
the people and cargo you can calculate if a 1/2 ton will work for you. I have a feeling
you probably should be in a light 3/4 ton not a 1/2 ton. You could add air bags or extra
leaf springs and everything would be fine but you would still be violating the ratings
of the truck. Rumors are Nissan will have some kind of 3/4 truck at some point but no
facts yet. This will be a problem with all half ton trucks except for the F150 which has
a payload package available but the engine is kinda slow compared to the others so I
would pass on this unit for towing big stuff.

This info courtesy : Squid

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Nice work.
Red

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2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy

Yes I did do good work on that.

Under the dash, there is a socket that the jumper connector, supplied with the Big Tow package connects into.

The JUMPER "pin out" and wire colors are as follows:

Elec Brake Jumper:
NO__Color__Function
TA10__R/G__Brk SIG
TAE2__B____GND
TA01__BR/W__BRK out
TA12__R/L__ILL
TA11__R___FUSED B+


I looked for a NISSAN part number, but there wasn't one on my jumper. If I find one, I'll edit this post to include the number.

Red Alert

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2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy

Here is a photo showing the location of the under dash socket that the Electronic Brake Controller Jumper hooks into:



Hope this is of some assistance.

Red

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2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy

Red, do all Titans have that brake controller jumper hook-up .... or is that a Big Tow thing?

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'04 SexySilver KC XE ....120k miles....the usual mods.

Mr. B,
From what I recall of postings on this subject, most if not all Titan's have this connector, even if not outfitted with the Big Tow package.

On the XE, for example, the socket is taped up under the dash as shown in the picture. To make the XE a Big Tow, in name at least, it would be necessary to add the two towing relays, a hitch and an Electronic Brake Controller that is a Non-Nissan item.

As far as the Jumper is concerned, you can get it from Nissan Parts dealers.

Other folks who have upgraded their Titans, have found the factory hitch to be a good deal as it includes more than just the hitch. I'd have to do some research to find out just what was included.

Let me know if you need additional info.

Red

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2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy

Couple of questions on WD hitches.
I'm thinking that that they attach to the trailer's frame and not the truck's, and also mount only to the receiver hitch of the truck?

If the above is correct, the how is it possible to transfer the load to the truck's front axle, (since the wd hitch and trailer are still only attached to the reciever hitch of the truck)?

Now, I can see less weight on the tongue in a round about way transfering some of the weight to the front axle, but this is stated: "When the WD system is engaged the actual tongue weight does not change". So what is happening here?

Well, I'm far from an expert on this subject, so if any info I submit is wrong, those of you who know better, please correct me.

Try this on for size.

If you were to grasp your right fist in your left hand, you would find you can move your elbows up and down easily as your fist pivots in your hand. Now grasp your right elbow in your left hand, and your left elbow in your right hand. You will notice that you can no longer pivot one elbow up or down without transferring the pivoting force to the other elbow. Now notice how the weight distribution arms connect from beside/just below the ball, to a point on the TT's "A frame." What has happened is that you have, in effect, removed the up/down pivot action out of the hitch ball joint. Now the truck's hitch, which is attached to the frame forward of the ball connection, is, via the WD arms, connected to the frame of the trailer aft of the ball. This whole system is now acting like a rigid connection from the point the hitch attached to the truck's frame to the point the WD arms attach to the TT's frame in the up/down direction. Of course, it still pivots left/right to allow turns.

Looking over this description, I realize that it is really lacking. I'll do some research and see if I can find a better answer.

Red

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2005 Titan KC SE, Helwig, True-Track, ARE MX Canopy