http://www.titantruckz.com/kb/index.php?article=22

Thanks for creating this thread squid. I have been meaning to create it on the non-KB side just haven't gotten around to it!!! Will try to work on that tonight.

David

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I thought we needed a "Table of Content" for the KB before it got to large. I mean, we can't expect everyone to know what the knowledge base is...can we?

from J.C. Whitney:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000202461

This is what they look like:



These are the steps required to strip down the interior of a KC for this install:

Unbolt and remove both rear seats
Remove sill plates (they just pull up)
Remove rear seat belts
Remove rear side panels all the way up to the roof
Remove the latch protectors (for KC) up at roof level
Remove all handles in the roof
Remove both coat hangers
Remove A pillar trim
Remove sun visors (will need a Torx screwdriver for this)
Remove clips for sun visors (turn 180 degrees and pull straight down & out)
Remove overhead console
Remove overhead lamp
Start prying down the headliner (there are 4 clips/snaps at the very back) - you have to pull the door opening molding away from the headliner to let it down
Headliner will come down to rest on driver/passenger seat backs - unplug wiring harness for overhead lights (2 plugs for XE) - then untape wiring from top of headliner - then you can take it out.

All of this took me ~ 2 hours working at a leisurely pace. Some pics of the bare roof:





To be continued in the next post....

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The lights come with a template. Use this template to mark your roof for drilling holes. I did this from the inside. I set my lights about 3-4 inches back from the top of the windscreen. Make sure you have the template for the center light centered and parallel with the windscreen. Mark your holes, centerpunch and drill them. The center light requires 6 mounting/location holes plus a wiring access hole in the centers.

The Pacer lights come these funny plastic square/T sockets for the mounting screws to go into. These require that you drill overly large holes for the squares to up into. The T tabs start to crack and break when you tighten the screws to get a good seal on the roof. I ended up ditching them and went to the hardware store and bought some sheet metal nuts and washers so I could tighten the light down and get a good tight seal on the roof. Therefore, I would not use any of them if I were repeating this process. After my experience with the center light, I mounted the outboard lights differently: I just drilled holes slightly smaller than the sheet metal screws and screwed the sheet metal screws directly into the roof.

The outboard lights require 2 mounting/location holes and a hole for wiring access.






At this point the lights are not wired up. See the next post for more.

David

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Once you have the lights mounted, wiring them up is pretty easy. Ground each light to the front roof support bar which runs across the roof just behind the windscreen. Then you can connect all +/red wires together and run the supplied power wire down the driver's side A pillar to the bottom of the dash area. How you control them is up to you. Use a relay to have them come on with the parking lamps or control them directly with a switch placed in the lower swith panel by your left knee.

You may want to take this opportunity to place some DynaMat (or comparable product) on the roof while you have the headliner down. Or go ahead and put in a sunroof

Just to be safe, place some silicone sealer around the mounting screw holes to protect from moisture entry.

Tape all of your wiring down to prevent rattles. I stuck a short piece of Velcro (fuzzy side) to the roof just under the wire connectors to prevent them from rattling.

Verify operation of the lights and then you are ready to replace the headliner.







More to follow....David

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More pics at night:




Tape all of your wiring down to prevent rattles. I stuck a short piece of Velcro (fuzzy side) to the roof just under the wire connectors to prevent them from rattling.





More to follow.....David

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This is the back end of the center console mount and also the interior dome light mount:



These are a couple of pics of the dark side of the headliner:





I performed this entire operation solo but, an extra pair of hands would be handy during the headliner replacement process. I snapped the 4 mounting snaps in the back first, then started working the door moulding back around and over the headliner to hold it in place. REMEMBER TO SNAKE THE WIRING HARNESS BACK UNDER THE HEADLINER. Now you can start putting all of the interior trim pieces back in.

That wraps up this modification. Be sure to PM me if you have any questions/recommendations. David.

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